"Bath is a charming place, sir; there are so many good shops here."
I can't say too much about Bristol since I ended up spending the majority of my time in Bath (about which I will ramble on in a bit). I did find myself surrounded by a sense, that I never did shake, that it's a city about which no one really cares. I felt that way almost as soon as I stepped out of the station. This was the first time I walked out of a train station to see several abandoned buildings in a row. Of course, I had passed a few abandoned buildings in Liverpool, but here they felt different. Here they felt somehow dead, as though the buildings themselves had given up hope. And while Liverpool abounded a sense of pride and love for the city, Bristol felt like a city imbued with apathy. I didn't like it. Bristol is not a city in which I would like to live. I definitely preferred Liverpool.
Now, as I said, I spent most of my allotted time in Bath. I had planned to spend a couple of hours, at least, and ended up spending about six. Bath is a beautiful city that has done quite well blending new into its old. The entire city center (and a good bit beyond) was built out of this cream colored stone (I hazard a guess at some type of sandstone, asthat seems to be the thing to build with in the western part of England, but I can't be sure without a Google search that I am unable to do right now). The effect is stunning, really. I was very impressed with the shops as they were all happily, and largely unobtrusively, housed in the beige buildings with only the bottom floor storefront to speak to modernity. I don't actually recall seeing a building that felt out of place. There probably is one somewhere, but I didn't see it, at any rate. Haha.
I was certainly drawn to the serene beauty of the city. After a short walk around parade gardens, I acquired a map and headed over to the Fashion Museum. It was pretty interesting. I ended up taking more pictures than were probably justified under the "It can go in my costume file" excuse. Haha. I did, though get to see an actual dress of Queen Victoria's. That was pretty neat, I must say.
After the Fashion Museum, I poked about the Assembly Rooms (where Jane Austen set some important gathering scenes, no less) and then meandered my way to the Circus (where Thomas Gainsborough lived) and the Royal Crescent (exclusive and beautiful housing with a brilliant front view). I made my way back to the town center via the Gravel Walk (now paved, but home to a lovely Georgian garden example). As I was turning the corner to take a picture of Queen Square (the house Austen stayed at when younger used to stand there), I spotted a neat little sign for the The Jane Austen Centre. Well, of course I had to see it. Beautifully done, it was a charming walk through with a lovely gift shop. I had a fun time comparing not only the lives of certain Austen characters as well as the story of Becoming Jane to Jane's actual life. She seemed even more to me like someone I would have enjoyed knowing. In the gift shop, I aided a customer by encouraging his purchase of Pride and Prejudice and Zombies and decrying the existence of Sense and Sensibility and Sea Monsters. The docent who was at the register was intrigued by my opinions and when I explained the reasons behind them, she mentioned that a colleague who had read them both came to similar conclusions. Thus, +1 to me for having opinions on Austen adaptations that are approved by Jane Austen Centre docents. :-P
If that wasn't enough for one day, I next headed to the Roman Baths Museum. After all, why go if you're going to skip going into the best bit there, right? :-) The baths and their museum are stunning. Seeing parts of the original courtyard of the baths was...well, moderately overwhelming, despite my Old Stuff experience in York. It was absolutely worth every minute. I did want to feel the water, though, but that isn't allowed, unfortunately. I did get my picture taken with a centurion, so it all evened out. After spending almost seven hours in Bath, I made my return to Bristol quite exhausted. The slightly neurotic and almost weepy level of exhausted. Thankfully, I received a needed pep talk and decided to make a travel plan adjustment in order to facilitate some needed rest. Okehampton would be scrapped (goodbye Dartmoor and castle ruin), and I would take an extra day in Salcombe (hello rocky beaches, cliffs, and wealthy second-homers). But first, my travels would bring me to Plymouth.
**The quotation in the title is from Northanger Abbey by Jane Austen.